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Balsamic vinegar
is an exclusive and precious product for centuries fermented, matured
and aged in a strip land in the Po Valley within the boundaries
of the district of Modena. The core of this area is Spilamberto,
a small prosperous country town lapped by the river Panaro
and situated near the foothills of the mountains. Balsamic
vinegar is created by the natural and spontaneous transformation
of grape-must boiled and concentrated on the fire and
in the open air. The raw must is obtained by the gentle
squeezing of overripe Trebbiano grapes. The above-mentioned
later boil modifies its composition both as to quality
and to quantity and creates the ideal "habitat", which
with the help of man will become the setting for its lifelong
transformation into balsamic vinegar. Boiled at different
levels of sugar concentration, the product undergoes a
natural fermentation brought about by unicellular microorganisms
(osmophylic yeast) capable of destroying the sugar molecules
and of producing ethyl alcohol, which is then gradually
oxidized into acetic acid by the effect of other microorganisms
(acetobacteria). These two transformations occur according
to a continuous interaction between yeast and acetobacteria,
and the development continues as long as the environmental
conditions allow for it. The process stops when the yeast
and the acetobacteria cease to live and remain idle in
the medium so as to create a spontaneous autolysis with
the consequent liberation of the enzymes contained in
the cells. At this point the second stage of transformation
of the concentrated boiled grape-must takes over. This
is called the "maturation stage" and is considered essential
to the formation of the particular unique and unmistakable
flavors which characterize the product. The next stage
is the so-called "aging". Here the product undergoes a
chemical and physical alteration for an indefinite period
of time during which the distinctive features of the balsamic
vinegar are perfected. Usually the vinegar is kept in
a set of wooden containers (casks or barrels) of different
capacities during all three stages. Fermentation takes
place "upstream" in the first casks, maturation occurs
in the Intermediate ones, while aging is perfected in
the smallest casks "downstream" the set. The types of
wood employed for the casks are traditionally mostly oak,
chestnut, mulberry and juniper (nowadays also ash, robinia
and cherry). The particular type of wood employed contributes
to characterize the balsamic vinegar produced. An average
vinegar making set is made up of five, seven or more casks
with a capacity usually ranging from 10 to 75 liters and
even more, if we consider the "mother barrel". In past
centuries the number of casks making up a vinegar making
set could even reach forty units, which allowed the transformations
to develop harmoniously in gradual decreasing order. Nowadays
a set of just ten casks is considered to be remarkable.
The reason why the vinegar making set is made up of casks
of different capacities is that it is necessary to decant
the vinegar as soon as the winter season sets in. Decantation
is part of the operations required for the correct handling
of the set. A certain quantity of vinegar is transferred
from one cask to another, beginning with the casks of
least capacity, so as to top up the vinegar taken from
the smallest cask and to make up for the physiological
"yearly shrinkage". These operations require an expert
hand and craftsmanship with great care for the state of
development of the product contained in each cask, so
as to ensure its best development and its being kept alive
over the centuries. The art needed for decanting and handling
the casks is wrapped in mystery, and mystery has always
accompanied the transformation of balsamic vinegar into
the characteristic and peculiar uniqueness with which
it appears to any observer. The vinegar making sets are
kept at home in the attic. In fact, during its development
the product must be kept in an environment without moisture
with permanent high temperatures in summer and with cold
in winter. The summer heat favors the activity of microorganisms,
while the winter cold, instead, lets the product rest
and makes its limpid.
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Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale |
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Aceto Balsamico di Modena |
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Both varieties of Aceto Balsamico,
the Tradizionale and the Balsamico di Modena,
start the same way. The juice from selected red and white grapes is boiled down by 2/3 to obtain a grape syrup
called "mosto". To this mosto is added some vinegar with special live yeast in it. This mixture is then placed in oak
casks and aged at least 12 months. Balsamic vinegar must have for law a 6% acidity.
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale is prepared the same way but is aged in a battery
of increasingly smaller casks made of different woods: oak, chestnut, cherry, apple etc. The casks are not sealed
but simply covered with a thick linen cloth so that the balsamic vinegar can absorb the natural enzymes from the air.
Each year the larger casks containing younger vinegar is used to "top off" the vinegar that has evaporated from
the smaller casks containing the more mature vinegar. In this way, the mature vinegar is able to absorb some
of the aroma and flavor from each of the different woods.
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